A few nice the webpage cannot be found images I found:
Confessinons of a Book-Addict
Yesterday I re-arranged the better part of my books. Not all of them, only the novels. Most of the novels. Since months they were trying to conquer my little apartment, piling in every corner, hiding when I am looking for one of them. Books are cruel when you don’t find them. Or when they are not strong enough to keep you reading. Then they end up somewhere in the kitchen or fall from the bedside table and wait for further attention. Most of them start closer relationships with dust, which is also very attracted to books.
I only read novels, nothing else. Since two decades I try to read books about science, biographies, psychological and philosophical literature. It never really works for me. I read the biography of Richard Feynman and "Fermat’s Last Theorem" and that should be enough non-fiction for a lifetime. This nevertheless does not stop me from buying more non-fiction books. I look into them every now and then, spend some time inside them, but never really read them from cover-to-cover. One of my latest acquisition is "Die Rückkehr der Geschichte" ("The return of history") by former German foreign minister Joschka Fischer. I started reading it. It was very interesting. In the middle of the second chapter I stopped and now it leans against a half-read Willy Brandt biography and smooches with dust.
There are also many novels that I own but did not read – yet. They just keep coming in and start living with me. They tell me that they are very interesting and worth spending money and time on them. Once they are bought, they are a part of me. It seems impossible to get rid of them. I know I am an addict – but books are not my only addiction and I cannot care for every weakness that I have, so let’s don’t get into an argument whether it makes sense to buy something that is only used to bind dust.
Believe me, I tried to free myself from the addiction. At least once every week I have this vision of a free life, in which I only own a bed, two chairs, a table and a laptop. Books I would lend from the library, as every sound person does. It is a wonderful thought, I always feel light and happy when I think it.
During the last weeks I found out about BookCrossers, a group of people who intentionally lose their books. They register them beforehand in the internet, where they get a registration number that they write into the book together with a note that the person, who finds it, should go to the webpage and type the number in. That way the journey of a book can be followed. This sounded like the end of my addiction: I would lose all my books. I would take the best ones first, register them and share them one by one with the entire world.
Of course that dream was over when I stood in front of my shelf. First I took out "Post Office" and even before I had typed it’s ISBN into the BookCrossers webpage I felt a scalpel sliding along the inside of my stomach. I was about to cut off an essential part of my body. Maybe I should start with a book which I have read several years ago, not one that I just finished. "Post Office" went on a pile again and I took out "The Music of Chance" – but no, not this one. Maybe a German book? Who wants to find a German book in Finland – it makes no sense to lose it here. Keep it, Georg, keep it! Even those that I had not read, that I never intend to read in the future, I could not decide to lose.
Yesterday I took a long look into the abyss of my character. Afterwards I gave in and decided to keep them all and to re-arranged at least the novels. Most of the novels. They went on several piles on my desk. German literature. Poetry. Crime. English and American writers. French authors. Finish stuff. The piles grew fast. I dragged the victims of my inattention out from every corner of the 42 square meter flat, blew the dust from them and put them on top of their pile. That was the easy part.
DIY S5 IS Remote Shutter
More and more owners of Canon PowerShot cameras have found CHDK, which is a firmware hack that allows users to add a lot of additional capabilities to their cameras. The capabilities include faster and slower shutter speeds, addition of RAW format, increased aperture range, better histograms, battery monitors, and user control scripts. I’m not going to discuss how to install CHDK or any scripts here. The links in these instructions (and the discussions in the Canon PowerShot S5 IS Group provide lots on good information on how to do that.)
UPDATE: (31 August 2008) The newer Juciphox Build of CHDK allows for the remote to work without additional scripts. In my initial testing, this version is much simpler to use than the older script-based technique.
One of the scripts available to CHDK users adds the capability to remotely trip the shutter using the camera’s USB port. Before you read any further, please note that while most things that you can do with CHDK cannot harm your camera, applying too much power to the USB port on your camera can cause major damage that Canon will charge you an enormous amount of money to repair. This is a fairly easy hack if you own a multimeter and a soldering iron, but if the thought of wiring a homemade device into your beautiful little camera and risking the possibility of causing it go KABLOOEY makes you feel uneasy, then this may not be the project for you. IF YOU FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS, YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK.
There are some great webpages that explain the process of building and using a USB remote trigger, including the script itself. Since a remote trigger is great for long exposure and macro photography, I decided to build it for myself. I followed the instructions, but it didn’t work. I could trip the shutter by running the script and connecting the camera to a laptop via the USB cable, but not when my trigger was connected. I tested and retested it, but nothing would make it work. Finally, I found this page that indicated that unlike the S2 IS and S3 IS, the S5 needs at least 3.7V to trigger instead of the 3V that would trigger the earlier cameras. So, I rebuilt the remote to use 4.5V (using a 3V CR2032 watch battery and a 1.5V "Type N" alkyline battery) , and it immediately worked like a charm.
I bought all of the components at Radio Shack (and the part numbers listed below are their part numbers, this isn’t an add for them, they are just the only place in my small town that sells this type of stuff). The case is a 270-1801 Project Enclosure (.29), which is 3x2x1 inches (7.5x5x2.5 cm). The momentary push button switch is part number 275-646 (.49). It is mounted in the case with a 1/2 inch hole. I also routed out a small hole with a Dremmel tool on a corner opposite the switch so that the USB cable could exit the case once the lid is screwed back on.
I cut a spare USB extension cable with "Type A" ends (i.e., with a plug on one end and a receptacle on the other). I stripped back part of the cable on the receptacle end and found the wires corresponding to pins 1 and 4 using a multimeter.
To generate enough power in such a small enclosure, I ended up using both a 3V CR2032 battery and a 1.5V "N" alkaline battery. The battery holders for these are part numbers 270-0009 for the CR2032 (
"Just a moment. Just a moment. I’ve just picked up a fault in the AE-35 unit…"
(HAL 9000 – 2001: A Space Odyssey – Arthur C. Clarke)
Welcome to the sequel: The date is January 5, 2010.
Yes, it’s officially pronounced, "Twenty-Ten." And no… it’s NOT, "Two-Thousand Ten." But enough with the semantics. The date was coming. The programmers saw it. Even some prepared for it. I’m guessing, no one really thought that some one would still be using the same Newton, ten years from now.
Surprise! The Newton was, after all, 10 years ahead of it’s time.
As the date pressed closer and closer, users prepared. Eckhart Köppen releases the Y2010 ROM Patches for the MP2x00 models. A technical feat nearly unheard of in the annals of Newton-dom. The eMate 300 was next. Along with a German MP2x00 ROM patch, as well.
Our hopes were running high and then… pop! Like the sound of someone who finds a piece of left-over bubble wrap.
Well, here’s a chance to save yourself from certain doom. You can now get yourself a FREE Y2010 (that’s "Y" "Twenty" "Ten") Linear Flash Lender Card. Everything is on there to help bring your version 2 Newtons up-to-date and back online.
Quickly, easily, without fear.
Almost… We will have to wait just a little bit longer. Several (deep-seated) bugs remain, that push our Newtons just that much more out of date. The MessagePad 2000/2100 & eMate 300 – Once updated and a reset of any kind happens (hard reset, power failure, soft reset or crash), the Newton’s clock to revert to January 1, 2008 4:00am PST… bugger!
The MessagePad 120 (v2.0 NOS) & MessagePad 130 – Updating to the current ROM did solve my looping-reset problem.
However, I cannot set the date to anything in 2010. It reverts immediately to November 1, 1995. Solution: Party like it’s 1999.
Avi Drissman’s Fix2010 Version 1.0a1 (28 September 1998) Initial sick, demented alpha-version. (and it still works on v2.0 NOS Newtons! Just don’t try using it on a Y2010 Patched ROM… unless you like lawn darts in the dark.)
Eckhart Köppen’s Newton Year 2010 Information:
http://40hz.org/Pages/40Hz Newton Year 2010 Problem
Y2010 Lending Card Readme: (uh… Newton Required)
Y2010 Lending Card Backup: (Stuffit and a Newton Required)
Current Apple ROM Patches for other Newtons from UNNA.org:
The photo (above) represents a techno-feat in, and of itself, as well.
The printed pages are from an e-book contained on this 4MB Linear Flash Storage Card. The e-book was created with NewtonPress, using Mac Classic (OS 9) running under OS X 10.3. The compiled e-book, and the patches to fix the problem, have been placed on a freshly formatted "Lending Card." Duplicates have been restored (quickly and wirelessly) from a master backup copy, using a Wireless ad-hoc AppleTalk connection to my MessagePad 2100. Finally, the MessagePad 2100, printed copies of the e-book to an HP LaserJet 6P via IrDA and a (speed boosted) HP5 printer driver.
This Lending Card and e-book will be distributed through-out the known world; helping Newton users everywhere. Because we all know… A Newton never dies.
It just prefers November 1, 1995, a whole lot more than it does January 5, 2010.
Like a lot of us… I imagine.
.99), and 270-405A for the N battery (.99). I soldered the black wire from the N battery holder to the "+" connector post on the CR2032 holder. I then soldered the red wire from the N battery holder to one post of the switch. I then soldered another length of red wire to the other post of the switch, and a length of black wire to the "-" post of the CR2032 holder.
I attached all of the battery holders to the inside of the case using double-sided tape.
FInally, I soldered the red wire from the switch and the black wire from the CR2032 enclosure to the wires corresponding to pins 1 and 4 respectively on the USB receptacle cable that I cut earlier. I then taped up these soldered connections with electrical tape and packed them into the case as neatly as I could. After screwing the cover back on, I tested the switch with a multimeter to verify that pins 1 and 4 of the USB receptacle showed approximately 4.5V (but under no circumstances more than 5V !) when the button was depressed.
Once this was done, I connected it to my camera with a Type A to Mini-B USB cable, turned on the camera, started the remote shutter CHDK script, and my new remote worked perfectly!
I chose to use a Type A receptacle with a short cable on my remote. Some may prefer wiring a Mini-B type plug directly, but this method provides me with more flexibility. The short cord makes it easier to carry and store, and allows me to connect a short USB cable (which I carry in my bag), or a long one (which I don’t) depending on what I’m going to do. It’s also a lot easier to test the contraption during construction with the larger end than it would have been with the Mini-B.
I built this remote for about .75 (plus about for the batteries!). I was also able to use a USB cable that I already had. Local businesses were all really proud of their USB cables, but they can be purchased pretty inexpensively on the web.
Finally, if you don’t want to use an "N" battery, any 1.5V battery will work. AA or AAA batteries would work fine, but I didn’t have room in my case to use them.
UPDATE (15 September 2008): I have now built a second trigger with a larger case that uses three AAA batteries and that has a larger button for use by people with limited manual dexterity.